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 Post subject: DIY MTM Tower speakers
PostPosted: December 2nd, 2018, 10:11 pm 
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Joined: June 22nd, 2013, 11:00 am
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https://www.parts-express.com/tritrix-m ... r--300-702

I got hold of this kit. I'm waiting to get the other parts to it. Might have to order a few things.

I have two steps, maybe three for this speakers.

1. Finish the cabinets. It seems painting it with non-gloss paint is my better option. Black will work but I am thinking about a different color.

2. Assemble the speaker and crossover. Can anybody understand this crossover frequency?

https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/sp ... -47147.pdf

3. Upgrade the speaker. Which would be using different crossover parts.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Assistance?


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PostPosted: December 2nd, 2018, 10:56 pm 
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From my point of view the best first upgrade would be bi-amplification. Either analog or digital. If you do bi-amplify make sure the tweeter amplifier has negligible DC offset.


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PostPosted: December 2nd, 2018, 11:28 pm 
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brombo wrote:
From my point of view the best first upgrade would be bi-amplification. Either analog or digital. If you do bi-amplify make sure the tweeter amplifier has negligible DC offset.


Since I have two separate sets of 8 inch woofers, I would consider incorporating them into a three way passive system (8's in external enclosures). Using multiple amplifiers plus a crossover is overkill for this speaker.


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PostPosted: December 3rd, 2018, 10:30 am 
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mix4fix wrote:
brombo wrote:
From my point of view the best first upgrade would be bi-amplification. Either analog or digital. If you do bi-amplify make sure the tweeter amplifier has negligible DC offset.


Since I have two separate sets of 8 inch woofers, I would consider incorporating them into a three way passive system (8's in external enclosures). Using multiple amplifiers plus a crossover is overkill for this speaker.


Sorry, you are mistaken. Bi-amping or tri-amping is a superior way of operating a multi-way system. Yes, if you are an engineering genius, have lots of equipment and time, you can make a passive crossover that is excellent. By your posts, I'm guessing that that's not the case.

The active equipment need not be expensive. For starters, consider using two "T" amps https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-au ... c--300-380 they sound surprisingly good, thanks Joel. $30 each, use one for each channel, right behind, even attached to the speakers.

For a crossover, Roscoe turned me on to the excellent sounding Behringer (yes, I know) CX2310. 4th order, L-R alignment, adjustable gain and crossover points. It's no longer available, replaced by the CX2310V2. I don't know if the replacement is as good, but it probably doesn't suck. $100 new, shipped free, no tax. If you can find a CX2310, they were $80 new, probably find one for $50 or so.

That's it, besides cables. Use magnet wire amp-speakers and make your own (cheap) or buy XLR cables from source to crossover and crossover to amps.

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail ... -cx2310-v2

It is worth the effort and way easier than designing a GOOD passive crossover. Cheaper too!

To adjust the setup, all you need is a PC, free Room Equalization Wizard software and a calibrated mike. https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-au ... e--390-808 $70

Or use your ears and the recommended crossover points.

The best news: you can use your bi-amp rig (which does include adjustable subwoofer outputs!) for ANY speaker system you buy in the future!

Good luck.


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PostPosted: December 3rd, 2018, 11:36 am 
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As an alternative, you might want to look at this. It is smaller and has more functionality. Either will work for what you need in an active scenario.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-au ... o--230-500


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PostPosted: December 3rd, 2018, 12:30 pm 
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I'm waiting to get the rest of the stuff that's supposed to come with it (including the original crossover components).

What about these passive crossovers?

https://www.parts-express.com/cat/assem ... PortalID=1

https://www.parts-express.com/cat/assem ... PortalID=1


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PostPosted: December 3rd, 2018, 2:43 pm 
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You have the schematic, just buy the parts if you must go passive.

5 parts per channel: one resistor, two inductors, two caps. Done.


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PostPosted: December 4th, 2018, 8:31 am 
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Location: Baltimore MD
I would go passive first to see if I like the character or the speaker. Just purchase the best possible components you can afford. You can do much better than the prebuilt ones that PE sells. For the tweeter get a good cap, not Dayton or Solen. This will make the biggest difference in sound.


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PostPosted: December 4th, 2018, 9:24 am 
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Pelliott321 wrote:
I would go passive first to see if I like the character or the speaker. Just purchase the best possible components you can afford. You can do much better than the prebuilt ones that PE sells. For the tweeter get a good cap, not Dayton or Solen. This will make the biggest difference in sound.


I disagree on the caps. I used Dayton audio in the eggs and people at the show who heard them were impressed. Remember when we did the blind test on speaker caps at Davids and no one could hear the difference between the so called crappy Russian caps and the golden standards.


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PostPosted: December 4th, 2018, 10:36 am 
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tomp wrote:
Pelliott321 wrote:
I would go passive first to see if I like the character or the speaker. Just purchase the best possible components you can afford. You can do much better than the prebuilt ones that PE sells. For the tweeter get a good cap, not Dayton or Solen. This will make the biggest difference in sound.


I disagree on the caps. I used Dayton audio in the eggs and people at the show who heard them were impressed. Remember when we did the blind test on speaker caps at Davids and no one could hear the difference between the so called crappy Russian caps and the golden standards.


Okay, here we go. Time for me to piss off everyone.

1) Tom, I know we disagree about caps. I have no doubt that there is a difference in caps. The test performed at David B.'s house was flawed in several ways. Nevertheless, unless memory fails me, most in the room "guessed" over 50%. David B over 70% IIRC. But in any event, it was a flawed test.
At that test there was no "golden standard". There was nothing close to a Duelund Cast, Jensen, Mundorf Supreme Silver/oil, V-Cap, etc.; nothing of the sort.

1a) Tom, your logic about the Eggs at the show is flawed. Just because "people at the show" liked what they heard does not mean that there is not an improvement to be had with better grade caps, resistors and even wiring. These are all imperfect components, but as you know too well, line level active crossovers are superior to any speaker level passive crossover. Especially when used with a unit like you have which can be programmed with all sorts of phase corrections, filters etc. We will continue to disagree on this, I have no doubt. I'll let it go there.

2) Having said that, Steve is unlikely to be spending the money on a high end cap. In the sizes he needs: 10uF & 20uF, Solens and Daytons are the likely choices. He could use multiples of 5uF in other cap brands, but again, we are talking about serious money for any of them.

If I'm making a suggestion (!), not that my personal opinion means shit, but I'd suggest a Mundorf Supreme. Sonicraft sells them for $66+ Each in 10uF size, so $400 for the project using $275 speakers. That seems a bit silly, eh? So why not use those Russian caps and use Russian Teflon 0.22uF bypasses for a cost of ~ $20 for four 0.22uF, $6.70 for two 20uF caps https://www.ebay.com/itm/20uF-160V-MATC ... :rk:5:pf:0 and $1 each for 10uF caps https://www.ebay.com/itm/MBGO-2-10uF-16 ... :rk:1:pf:0

It's what makes economic sense, regardless of sonic differences.

3) This is the huge question for Steve (mix4fix). Please, it's not my intention to insult you, but something in your posts is bothering me: your questions about buying pre-made crossovers and trying to discern the crossover point of a filter in a schematic already designed for the speakers you have.

Can you read a schematic? If the answer is no, there is no shame in it. We are willing to help someone who wants to learn. I had several books I would have loaned to you, but sadly, I loaned them to another club member who failed to return them. In fact, he threw them away. So, if it is the case that you need some basic tutoring, I know there are lots of great member suggestions for written books and online educational sites. If you want to know.

If you would like a wiring diagram on how to assemble the recommended crossover on a small piece of 1/4" pressboard, I and I'm sure lots of others, would be willing to make and post a drawing.

If I'm wrong on this, please accept my apologies.

All the best!


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