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PostPosted: November 5th, 2019, 12:47 pm 
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https://www.parts-express.com/angled-lo ... --091-3608

https://www.parts-express.com/banana-sp ... --091-1260

https://www.parts-express.com/nine-tine ... --091-3612

https://www.parts-express.com/1-4-to-3- ... --091-3616

https://www.parts-express.com/expanding ... --091-3614

https://www.parts-express.com/expanding ... --091-3604

https://www.parts-express.com/nine-tine ... --091-3602

Didn't try very hard to find them on your own, did you? :angry-banghead:

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PostPosted: November 5th, 2019, 12:55 pm 
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mix4fix wrote:
Can we find the parts first, then we can argue about method? It is 8 gauge wire. There should be some type of option that will work without having to go overboard modding it.


Here is one option:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074P1TJ9Q

And yet another option:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Self-Lock-2 ... SwXdpcwXVR

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PostPosted: November 5th, 2019, 12:57 pm 
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Roscoe Primrose wrote:



And the lesson to be gleaned from Roscoe's advice? You can't be in this hobby and rely on others to do one's "homework."

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PostPosted: November 5th, 2019, 1:01 pm 
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Electrical supply house.

I use large cables as well, #14, 12 & #8 in parallel sets. I use s #6 crimp lug with a tight slot cut to fit the binding post. As has been pointed out, very high pressure crimp is the best connection.
Rent a crimping tool or get an electrical supply house/contractor to do it for you.


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PostPosted: November 5th, 2019, 1:04 pm 
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Crimp tool


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PostPosted: November 5th, 2019, 2:46 pm 
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mix4fix wrote:
Can we find the parts first, then we can argue about method? It is 8 gauge wire. There should be some type of option that will work without having to go overboard modding it.


Hmmm.... You have already gone overboard with 8 gauge wire. If you don't want to deal with the trouble of making 8 Ga wire work,, get 12 Ga wire. You will not hear any difference.

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PostPosted: November 5th, 2019, 5:21 pm 
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Cogito wrote:
mix4fix wrote:
Can we find the parts first, then we can argue about method? It is 8 gauge wire. There should be some type of option that will work without having to go overboard modding it.


Hmmm.... You have already gone overboard with 8 gauge wire. If you don't want to deal with the trouble of making 8 Ga wire work,, get 12 Ga wire. You will not hear any difference.


Good point. 30 feet of no. 12 has a resistance of only .048 ohms. With an 8-ohm load the wire is "barely there."

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PostPosted: November 5th, 2019, 5:37 pm 
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Forget DCR my friend. AC is the signal. Signal travels on the skin of the wire, depth varying with frequency. Having parallel sets of different diameter strands seems to help with providing a lower impedance signal path. DCR is of little or no consequence.

Maybe its BS. but it has served me and my mentor well.

Yup, Cardas with individually insulated strands would be better. My pockets ain't that deep.

Of course YMMV and system dependent.


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PostPosted: November 5th, 2019, 5:58 pm 
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Calculate your skin depth. Be careful of units.

https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/tools/ ... alculator/


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PostPosted: November 5th, 2019, 6:03 pm 
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Stuart Polansky wrote:
Forget DCR my friend. AC is the signal. Signal travels on the skin of the wire, depth varying with frequency. Having parallel sets of different diameter strands seems to help with providing a lower impedance signal path. DCR is of little or no consequence.

Maybe its BS. but it has served me and my mentor well.

Yup, Cardas with individually insulated strands would be better. My pockets ain't that deep.

Of course YMMV and system dependent.


Then explain why the Andrew Heliax micro-wave cable that I use for speaker cable, having a 12-gage solid center conductor, is rated out to 18-gHz.? And why after many - many - trials with so-called speaker cables, with every imaginable construction, pale by comparison?

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