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PostPosted: June 19th, 2019, 9:38 am 
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natandmark2 wrote:
I tried something like this after seeing it on another youtube video but it did not work at all.

I used plain copy paper with a laser printer, and acetone instead of nail polish remover.

The problem was the image did not transfer in the slightest from the plain copy paper to the copper board.

The key may be in using the cheap throw away magazine paper -- could hold onto the ink less or something.

It looks like a good technique in the video -- some of those traces he used were pretty thin!

Mark


Hey Mark,

What makes it work is GLOSSY magazine paper. That and a laser printer are a must. Ink jets spray ink that isn't useful. Lasers spray a sort of plastic that will not adhere to glossy magazine paper.

Give it another whirl. I'll be doing the same in a few weeks. I've done the procedure using an iron to lift the "print". Worked pretty well, but I'm liking the acetone version.

Stuart


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PostPosted: June 19th, 2019, 10:38 am 
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ratbagp wrote:
If you can fit your design into 100 x 100 mm then you can convert the PCBExpress file to Gerber using Fiverr. It's $5 for single layer and $10 for two layers.

https://www.fiverr.com/attilapapp/convert-your-expresspcb-file-into-gerber-files-to-your-pcb-fabricator?context_referrer=search_gigs&source=top-bar&ref_ctx_id=15af0d07-015b-46c0-813f-9fa3c78aabcc&pckg_id=1&pos=4&context_type=auto&funnel=f5a9fe53-4def-4d35-844f-e58345f4cfa5

I then send the Gerber files to one of the China PCB manufacturers
https://www.seeedstudio.com/fusion.html

Cost is $5 for 10 copies of the same board and about $10 for shipping. It usually takes a couple of weeks.

ray


Thanks for the links. I've been looking for a way to convert their files to Gerbers.


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PostPosted: June 19th, 2019, 11:08 am 
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I am going to try this again with the glossy magazine paper -- lord knows I get lots of throw-aways in the mail!

Tom -- If you don't mind me asking how much did you have to pay for the board(s) you showed a photo of a couple of messages ago? It did look like very good quality stuff.

Mark


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PostPosted: June 19th, 2019, 4:57 pm 
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Location: Baltimore MD
https://jlcpcb.com/

you can design your board online and get 10 for a couple of bucks
why go to this messy business


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PostPosted: June 20th, 2019, 8:57 am 
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natandmark2 wrote:
I am going to try this again with the glossy magazine paper -- lord knows I get lots of throw-aways in the mail!

Tom -- If you don't mind me asking how much did you have to pay for the board(s) you showed a photo of a couple of messages ago? It did look like very good quality stuff.

Mark


I don't remember the exact price because it was a few years ago. I ordered about 10 boards for the project and they were too large for the miniboard pricing which works out to $17 per board. The current setup price for the standard service is $63 plus the price of the boards. You can go up to 12" by 12" for that service. You can also put multiple boards on a single sheet and break them apart later.

For small runs I would probably go with the Express PCB software using their schematic program which links to their layout program which has a lot of benefits. I would then use the Gerber conversion service Ray mentioned and get quotes from the manufacturer he recommended. At those prices it would probably be worth a try. The only downside from stuff from China is the shipment time. If anyone is interested we could get together and do a schematic and dummy layout with the software I have so you can see how it works.


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PostPosted: June 23rd, 2019, 7:56 pm 
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Joined: March 1st, 2013, 11:12 am
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Sorry I'm coming to this thread a little late but Jim G just told me about it today. I've used the toner transfer method with great success, just made a couple of power supply boards yesterday. The secret is glossy paper. Tom Gotee, who invented the method suggested Staples Photo Basic Paper as the best. Unfortunately they don't seem to have it any longer but it works great. You could try other ink jet glossy photo papers to see if you find one that works well. Then you HAVE to use a laser printer (even though it is ink jet paper). They fuse some sort of plastic to the paper which then irons off on to the boards. Remember to print it as a mirror image so it will come out right in the end.

I use the HCl/H2O2 combination to etch. Like it a lot more than ferric chloride. The fact that it can be regenerated is cool as well.

I've used board houses as well but for something quick this method works great. As I said I just made 3 boards yesterday. Now just have to populate them and put them in the amps.

Charlie


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PostPosted: July 3rd, 2019, 11:03 am 
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Joined: February 24th, 2018, 6:16 pm
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Well, I tried this method again and its still a bust!

I tried all sorts of glossy papers, all sorts of solvents (acetone, acetone/water, acetone isopropanol, etc), and all sorts of pressings and dryings.

The best I could get was about 75% transfer, and I figure the electrons are going to notice this discrepancy!

Probably something in the wrist action I'm not doing correctly.

I've had pretty good luck with positive photo transfer boards, and although its not a perfect technique either, I think I'll stick with that for diy boards.

Mark


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