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PostPosted: November 16th, 2017, 4:11 pm 
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Posts: 270
Roscoe Primrose wrote:
Just bite the bullet and build a new box...

Roscoe


Hey Sashi,
Don't build a whole new cabinet!
If you can get the baffle off and gain access to the inside of your cabinet, you could add a skeleton like this:
Attachment:
001.jpg
001.jpg [ 1.21 MiB | Viewed 17193 times ]


Then put some stuffing in there.

The stuffing effect on the driver that the engineers are talking about will more than counteract the loss in volume from the skeleton.

Depending on your listening sensitivity, and the characteristics of the sidewalls on the existing cabinet, it might not be magic, but it will pretty dramatically change the behavior of your cabinet.

Just remember this also: The quality of the bass, and the number of the frequency you might think you want to achieve are two very very very different things. Getting 30 cycles, or 20 cycles, is no holy grail, especially if you don't get the quality right! If you have ever been in a boom car, you might realize that with the cabin gain, a couple big woofers, and a monster amplifier, it's pretty easy to get to 20 cycles. That's not music though! The engineers might disagree, but even with engineering, a real musical speaker needs to be artistically crafted. With the artistic analogy, the engineering basically gives you the size, shape, and consistency of the blank stone. The engineering also can give you a theoretical image you want to overlay onto the stone, but as the speakerbuilder, like the sculptor, you need to bring the stone into form!

When you get the quality right, just getting to 60-50 cycles is more than adequate for a really good sounding speaker.

This is just my method, but how I achieve this is by experimenting with the cabinet material, the thickness of the cabinet walls, the density or mass of the cabinet walls, the size of the actual panels, and the size of the radiating portions of the panels after the actual panels are broken into smaller theoretical panels by an internal bracing system.

The reason I'm telling you this is because a lot of this can be achieved with modifications to an existing cabinet.

You can still fool around with the response of the driver, but I'm convinced that the musical component is found in the construction of the cabinet.


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PostPosted: November 17th, 2017, 11:43 am 
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Joined: January 15th, 2015, 7:19 am
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Location: Baltimore MD
Hey Shashi
If you do not like the sound of the box, get rid of it.
go dipole dude lots of choices in that direction. You certainly have the room for it


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PostPosted: November 17th, 2017, 1:33 pm 
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Pelliott321 wrote:
Hey Shashi
If you do not like the sound of the box, get rid of it.
go dipole dude lots of choices in that direction. You certainly have the room for it


Paul, I like the system I have very much. Just trying to improve it further.

At one time, I used to use dipoles as HT surrounds. I like horns too much, not going to give up on them anytime soon.


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PostPosted: November 17th, 2017, 1:35 pm 
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chris1973 wrote:
Roscoe Primrose wrote:
Just bite the bullet and build a new box...

Roscoe


Hey Sashi,
Don't build a whole new cabinet!
If you can get the baffle off and gain access to the inside of your cabinet, you could add a skeleton like this:
Attachment:
001.jpg



Cabinet is sealed. Extremely difficult to open the baffle without destroying it. Only access to inside is the woofer mounting hole.


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PostPosted: November 17th, 2017, 2:49 pm 
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Joined: October 21st, 2013, 6:53 pm
Posts: 270
Cabinet is sealed. Extremely difficult to open the baffle without destroying it. Only access to inside is the woofer mounting hole.[/quote]

Yeah, maybe it's time for something new, but if you are actually going to put the effort into a new design, I would think twice about changing woofers until you have exhausted several enclosure options. That's just my opinion, because boxes are pretty easy to build, but finding good drivers you really like is a little more risky!

Also, just another opinion, but if you are going to build something new, and you are not absolutely convinced that a sealed box, for example, is the ultimate enclosure, try something you have never done before!

I just found this, and i'm thinking of punching several drivers into it to see if anything looks interesting:
http://dbdynamixaudio.com/dual-fold-on- ... alculator/

TL's sound awesome too!

Anyway, I'm beginning to feel like I'm preaching, and Sashi your not a novice, so I'm going to back out and let you figure it out :ugeek:


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PostPosted: November 17th, 2017, 3:22 pm 
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Location: Baltimore MD
a good woodworker can carefully cut the back out, add cleats and gaskets then fit a new back. Easy weekend project


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PostPosted: November 17th, 2017, 5:25 pm 
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The best way to remove one of the panels is to use an edge guide and a router with a straight bit. It will make the straightest, cleanest cuts. I'm in the process of restoring a very badly treated Heil AMT tower for a friend and had to remove half of a front panel that was a complete mess. I used the router and it worked fine. Reassembly of the new piece was done with glue and biscuits. Here are some photos.


Attachments:
Original housing_small.jpg
Original housing_small.jpg [ 273.78 KiB | Viewed 17166 times ]
cleaned up front_small.jpg
cleaned up front_small.jpg [ 266.4 KiB | Viewed 17166 times ]
New blank front panel_small.jpg
New blank front panel_small.jpg [ 258.74 KiB | Viewed 17166 times ]
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PostPosted: November 17th, 2017, 5:26 pm 
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Here is the new front being attached.


Attachments:
Clamping new front_small.jpg
Clamping new front_small.jpg [ 127.58 KiB | Viewed 17167 times ]
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PostPosted: November 18th, 2017, 9:07 am 
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Location: Baltimore MD
That's the best and neatest way to do it.
I'm going to have to do the same thing to my Janis W1's. When I was young and dumb I stupidly glued the bottom thinking it was a good idea that would add strength. What was I thinking. It now 32 years later and now I want to make a change


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PostPosted: November 18th, 2017, 9:59 am 
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I also used to young and dumb. Now I am just dumb. I might not be evident in the last photo but if you look carefully just under the front most clamp you will see a pink colored line. The significance of that is when I cut the slots for the biscuits, on the bottom section of the new plate I cut the slots on the thin edge as needed. I then proceeded to cut the slots on the sides on the same thin edges when they should have been cut on the back surface to mate with the thin edges of the box. DUH!!! When you get tired you tend to do dumb things. The pink lines are the Bondo I used to fill the errant slots before cutting the correct ones. Bondo is an old farts best friend.


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