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PostPosted: September 23rd, 2022, 9:07 am 
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brombo wrote:
If you don't use a capacitor with the tweeter make sure the dc offset of the amplifier driving it is in the millivolt range.


It's being driven full range, not bi-amped, to the best of my understanding of what is being done.


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PostPosted: September 23rd, 2022, 12:48 pm 
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It is a work in progress. That is the only way to mount the tweeter using two of its five mounting holes. The original woofers were the five inch with the square, curved frame.

I do have a pair of 8 inch woofers, but I need cabinets for them.

The cabinets are metal, and require something stuffed in them.

Both drivers are wired in parallel. The round speaker cup is just there for the convenience of plugging in my banana plugs.


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PostPosted: September 23rd, 2022, 2:42 pm 
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mix4fix wrote:
It is a work in progress. That is the only way to mount the tweeter using two of its five mounting holes. The original woofers were the five inch with the square, curved frame.

I do have a pair of 8 inch woofers, but I need cabinets for them.

The cabinets are metal, and require something stuffed in them.

Both drivers are wired in parallel. The round speaker cup is just there for the convenience of plugging in my banana plugs.


Again, if you want to keep using those tweeters, invest in a ~4.7uF cap. Film preferred, but bipolar in a pinch.

Stuart


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PostPosted: September 23rd, 2022, 5:26 pm 
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Again, if you want to keep using those tweeters, invest in a ~4.7uF cap. Film preferred, but bipolar in a pinch.

Stuart[/quote]

If you repeat it 20 more times it just may sink in. Either he'll blow out the tweeter from low frequency push -or- burn the voice coil -or- both. :o

Every swinging-dick on this blog knows that. You know that that -- I know that -- every one knows that!!! :angry-banghead:

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PostPosted: September 23rd, 2022, 5:52 pm 
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Leave the thread. If you can't give positive advice or encouragement, your opinion is not wanted.

Given what it is, I think it looks the part and I appreciate someone saying that it looks the part as well. It is a work in process. It will take time.


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PostPosted: September 23rd, 2022, 5:57 pm 
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The are cases where you can drive the tweeter(s) directly. Consider the following system -

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Each array has 18 midrange drivers an 72 tweeter drivers. Each of the four arrays is driven directly by an Emotiva XPA-4 (4 channel ampilfier). The system has been in use for several years with no problems. The Emotiva amps have a soft turn on and turn off. No problems even when the electrical line craps out.


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PostPosted: September 23rd, 2022, 7:32 pm 
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Still a risky situation for a tweeter without a blocking cap. I quad amp my system with no passive devices in series, but I also have a custom speaker protection circuit in case there is DC or the total power is too high. It saved my bacon one time when a driver transistor in an amp failed resulting in the amp swinging the output up to the DC buss voltage.


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PostPosted: October 7th, 2022, 5:31 pm 
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I will using a piece of clear plastic to cover the terminal opening. I will have someway of connecting bare speaker wire to it or a binding post.

Question is: how do you carefully cut and drill it without breaking the plastic?


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PostPosted: October 7th, 2022, 6:26 pm 
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Although there are drill bit for plastic, they are usually expensive. If you have some old spare drill bits in the sizes you need, you can grind the tips flat which will prevent them from grabbing the plastic.

Tom


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PostPosted: October 7th, 2022, 6:29 pm 
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What about cutting?


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