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Walt

Nice looking boards, Tom. Thanks for the heads up.

Steve, do you have the screws etc. to mount the speakers? For the crossovers, Home Depot and Lowes sell nylon standoffs in those big parts drawers. Whenever I'm in the store, I grab a bunch of sizes. They always come in handy.

Please post progress pics, and don't stop asking build questions. Happy to help.

Trial and error is the hobby. The reward is great when you find the magic mix.

Good luck.

Stuart

If you have time, you can also get any type or size on ebay. I usually get mine there. I just searched for nylon spacers there and got almost 32,000 hits. You can search for them by size which would reduce the returns by a lot.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... s&_sacat=0

This is something someone should have recommended before I placed my order. Now, I have to order again (and pay shipping) to get breadboards.

Then, it will not come with those wire tabs, I will ask, and someone will point something else to order.

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I reject your music, and substitute my own.

I can spare brass standoffs, let me know what you need.

A friendly note. Fellow hobbyists are trying help you here. It is not their responsibility to figure out what all you need, nor they have enough information to determine. Ultimately, this is your project and you have to drive it.

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Walt

You do not need that stuff
There many speaker that just glue components down on a piece of hardboard and wire the components to each other.
You guys are just making this so difficult and confusing by trying to show off.

I was definitely not trying to show off. Making a helpful suggestion.

Here is another. If the cabinets are not as smooth and finely finished as you might like, you can buy "Stone Finish" spray paint from your local hardware store. Kind of expensive at $8-$9 per can. But it covers defects nicely and easily.

Apply a sealer first, though.

Of course you could look on ebay.....

Gluing components to hardboard makes it hard to experiment. A better choice might be using tag strips similar to what Walt suggested. Screw them to the cabinet directly.

Here is another idea for consideration, bring the individual driver conductors through the rear of the cabinet. Mount the crossover on the rear of the speaker, or sit it on top. Once you are done experimenting, then you can make it permanent however best suits you.

I think one of the best things you can learn in a DIY project is good construction techniques. Yes you can hot glue stuff together and tack solder components. What you find out in the long run is that those techniques are not reliable. When soldering, the joint should first be mechanically good with the solder just filling in the connection and helping to prevent oxidation. Gluing components together will work but as Stuart said changing components will be more difficult. With my crossovers I have found that running the leads through the board to connect on the bottom side adds structural strength. With larger components like large film capacitors I also put hot glue under them as well. For air core chokes I use tie wraps through the board to provide mechanical stability. If you need to change something they are easy to cut. For large chokes with mounting holes I use screws and nuts to fasten them to the board. You can get by with the basics but I have found that every step to insure good mechanical connections as well as electrical connections pays off in the long term.