DCAudioDIY.com

I'll know more soon

This weekend's project:

The pieces:


Ready for a driver:


Dayton PA460-8 mounted:


Ready for a MF/HF baffle:


And a rear view:


Ready to play:


Rear view:


I still need to build the other one

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I can explain it to you, but I can’t understand it for you.

Second one done... Playing music, but no subs, the Ureis are running full-range. Bass a bit lighter than I've grown accustomed to


Roscoe

_________________
I can explain it to you, but I can’t understand it for you.

Roscoe,

Light bass, eh? Maybe larger baffles? I will have to see how my experiment plays out, I am using larger baffles so may get more support. I just got in the 8 MCM 10" drivers and should be in cabinet building mode.

David

Also, I remember that Martin King suggests that if using passive arrangement, you want the bass driver between 6 to 10 dB higher in output for better integration and extension. I bet you are probably the same, or the UREI is more sensitive (probably over 100 dB/1W if I were to guess).

David

I don't even have the 18s hooked up yet... A project for tomorrow...

Roscoe

_________________
I can explain it to you, but I can’t understand it for you.

Roscoe
Those are different amps than I have seen before.
What are they

The one on the left you've seen/heard before, described here: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=488

The one is the middle is a stereo 2A3 SE amp I built years ago for my brother, which recently returned to the stable. However, it has suddenly lost a channel (not tubes) so I'm going to have to figure that out...

On the right is the power supply for the phono stage...

Roscoe

_________________
I can explain it to you, but I can’t understand it for you.

Got the woofers hooked up and running this evening. Bi-amping, with SE2A3 for the Uries and a QSC amp driving the woofers. Xover is the Behringer CX2310 qhich we used at CAF in 2016, it sounded better than the DBX Driverack PA+...

Bass sounds quite good, doesn't go quite as low as the GW1858 on the JEL style baffle, but it's still pretty stout. Of course, the PA460 isn't the best choice for a SLOB, and the side wings could go a bit further back, but I ran out of plywood.

Roscoe

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I can explain it to you, but I can’t understand it for you.

Roscoe,

Thanks for the report. How would you characterize the *quality* of the bass compared with the Goldwoods? Since you are using 18 inchers in both configuration, do you think you gain anything with the slot loading?

I have been thinking a bit more on my cabinets, and intend on making them semi-knockdown (using carriage bolts and nuts) to fasten the top and sides together. With good solid battens and tight fasteners, it should be as good as a glue joint. If I need to make them wider in the future (say to accommodate an 18 inch driver, which my current cabinet cannot support), I can make longer top and bottom pieces and a new baffle and reassemble the cabinet. I don't want to keep building new cabinets every time I make a change.

There is another way of configuring slot loading, is to mount a driver vertically on an interior baffle behind the main baffle, comprising a chamber or slot between them, with an exit slot in the main baffle at the bottom. I was thinking about it since I do not have the depth in my current (already precut) cabinets to accommodate a 15 inch driver horizontally mounted like you have your 18's. If I make my cabinet a little wider (per above), I could slip in an 18 incher in the same manner.

David

I spent a bit of time listening last night. Bass quality is quite similar the the GW on the JEL baffle. I think the only things gained with the SLOB are the ability to use a narrower baffle and the freedom to put the rest of the drivers in the best place on the front baffle rather than having to work around the woofer. I've got a pair of these: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-au ... m--295-042 showing up tomorrow, and I've got the plywood to extend the wings to the rear of the base, so by this weekend I should have bass that goes as deep as it does on the JEL baffles with the GW driver.

If anyone wants to come over this weekend and critique/help me get the crossovers adjusted let me know, I plan to be around all weekend...



The vertical woofer idea has possibilities, but that precludes having the bottom of the MF/HF driver(s) any lower than the top of the woofer, which wouldn't work with a tilt-back front panel like I decided to use to keep the height reasonable. You've still got to have either width or depth to get the path-length long enough... One of the cool things about the design I built is that other than the front baffle, the entire "cabinet" can be made from 2'x2' precut panels from Home Depot/Lowes which really simplifies the woodworking. The only difficult part is cutting the angle on two pieces per speaker to get the tilt-back on the front baffle.

Roscoe

_________________
I can explain it to you, but I can’t understand it for you.